![]() Shook and Dotolo told me to “make sure you have a very flat sheet tray when you’re making them,” to ensure even layers. My take on these cookies uses tips from all of my rainbow cookie mentors. My husband and I missed our trip to Provincetown last year because of the pandemic, but the memory of those Canteen cookies gave me a reason to make them myself - finally - as a way to celebrate Pride. “For us at the Canteen, being a queer-owned restaurant in a very LGBTQ-centric town, it made sense for us to use the foundation of a traditional cookie and expand it to resemble the full-blown rainbow.” “I grew up eating them at the Jewish bakeries in metro Detroit,” co-owner Rob Anderson says. This version had orange, yellow, blue and purple layers in addition to the red and green. At the Canteen on Commercial Street, a glass case in the front featured mile-high rainbow cookies that went beyond the traditional red, white and green layers. Three years ago, on a trip to Provincetown, Mass., I saw rainbow cookies take on a whole new identity - for gay pride. ![]() Up until now, I’ve reserved my rainbow cookie experiences for trips home to visit my family in Florida, where my mom gets them from Way Beyond Bagels in Boca Raton for meals at Jon and Vinny’s, if I’m lucky enough to get a reservation and for trips to New England. They’re too nostalgic to serve at a dinner party and too messy to hand out at a social gathering. More likely, it’s because I’ve never really had a reason to make them. Maybe it’s because, knowing how much I love them, I’m afraid I might eat the whole tray. it changes the whole thing.”Īs an enthusiastic home baker, I’m constantly making cookies and cakes, but I’ve never attempted the rainbow cookie. “It’s like any nostalgic treat - if you give it an update with quality ingredients. “We used grapefruit marmalade, which paired well with the chocolate layer,” she says. Nonetheless, when Rucker hosted my 40th birthday party at her since-closed restaurant Fiona a couple of years ago, and I enlisted her to make rainbow cookies for dessert, hers were extraordinary. I actually think of as an East Coast thing.” ![]() Nicole Rucker of Fat & Flour, on the other hand, says the rainbow cookie “doesn’t have a hold on my heart like other cookies do. Shook, seemingly on the same page, adds: “It features my favorite flavors: chocolate, raspberry and almond.” “Anytime I see one, I order it,” Dotolo says, adding that it’s his favorite cookie. Jon Shook and Vinny Dotolo serve rainbow cookies at their Italian American cafe, Jon & Vinny’s. That it was originally an Italian cookie called the Tricolore, in honor of the Italian flag (red, white and green), speaks to its versatility in terms of identity. Technically, it’s a cake - if you didn’t cut it into squares, you could serve it as such - but for me it will always be the cookie my mother bought for me at Jewish bakeries on special occasions. The rainbow cookie is an emblem of my childhood, a three-color extravaganza of almond paste, raspberry jam and chocolate. ![]()
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